US, BEHIND THE MASK
In an exploration of identity, elements of fluidity are interpreted and re-established. Volatile like water, yet raw like soil – Jan Baiboon, Wenhao Hu, Jiashan Liu, Jay Pak, and Chloe Tang indulge themselves in a visual experiment of their inimitable Asian character. This is an unapologetic conversation about heritage – how modelling shaped and transformed their ‘identity’ today and what lies beneath their given character on set.
From Left to Right, Top to Bottom:
Chloe wears coat SIMONE ROCHA.
Wenhao wears dress and trousers UNISECON.
Jay wears dress VINTAGE TOM FORD.
Jiashan wears top and skirt KITS.
Jan wears shirt, skirt and tights RUI
PHOTOGRAPHER BELLA NEWMAN
STYLIST AMY MACH
INTERVIEWER JANE ZHENG
All by ALEXANDER WANG
JAN BAIBOON
Rooting from a mixed ethnic background but identifying as Thai, Jan Baiboon, fashion’s new favourite ginger, grew beyond her natural shyness through modelling. Growing up in Bangkok, she was somewhat of a common tomboy – rather the opposite of the stereotypical femininity associated with modelling. Her career in fashion was built intuitively: from being called a giraffe at school because of her height to a model contest she lost but offered her opportunities, and finally, the experience of walking show after show. She describes accurately: “it just happened”. When asked what identity meant to her, she replied to us with a clear and concise explanation, showing her talent of articulation outside of her creativity. “My understanding of identity is [split in] two parts: one, how I identify myself and two, how others identify me. There is some crossover of the two, my profession, my ethnicity, my gender…then there is the identification of self which is something I am still considering.” Embracing modelling as a profession means that you’re constantly given a mask to be someone else – often a visual identity created by others through styling or artistic direction. But often, it is the inner identity that is far more complex. “I would say my current identity is of a human in a state of change and growth”, Baiboon’s fluctuating reflections proves why it is often hard to summarise one’s identity – because we are constantly changing with an aspiration of becoming a better version.
Fashion is therefore a vehicle for her and many others – “it has a large plat-form to present fluidity and diversity”, an essential aspect of the current discussion of identity. But as someone in the centre of this industry, she believes progress is needed for conversations as such to unfold into the everyday. “For instance, in Thailand we have a very different environment when it comes to gender than in the West. There is some interesting data on runway representa-tion on this topic each season, and I think it is moving in the right direction.”
It is always difficult to select your own career highlight. After a moment of recall, Baiboon pins down to two: when she first came to the UK to walk exclusively for Burberry and her first-time walking for Chanel in Paris. “It was the moment when I realised how far I’ve come since I began, and that I still have further to go.” Understanding that it was the performative aspect of modelling that helped her overcome her natural shyness, she concludes: “Asian representation in fashion has grown massively in recent years in all areas, and I see this trend continuing as more people in Asia get the opportunity to create and occupy their own niche. The best fashion could be is providing a platform for different communities and voices to express themselves.”
Jan wears top and belt DIESEL,
blazer REGINA PYO, shorts DSQUARED2,
boots CAMPERLAB.
Jan wears dress and tights SIMONE ROCHA,
shoes MARNI.
From Left to Right:
Jay wears top, tights and hood TELFAR,
shoes DIESEL, dress VINTAGE PRADA.
Wenhao wears top, trousers and shoes TELFAR, belt DIESEL.
Jiashan wears bodysuit TELFAR,
sleeves VINTAGE COMME DES GARCON,
chaps VINTAGE
WENHAO HU
Born and raised in Beijing, Wenhao Hu might be the typical third culture kid you know. With parents from Wenzhou, a southern city in Zhejiang Province, China, Hu moved to New York with his mother at the early age of nine and spent his college years there too. Those from similar immigrant backgrounds would agree that ‘identity’ has always been one of those topics that intrigues but confuses. Questions of “who am I? who am I really?” often evolves with insecurity in an unfamiliar environment. Yet, Hu’s unpretentious understanding of identity reassures those troubled – “When I think about my own identity, I look into the family and friends that make me feel a sense of belonging.”
Scouted by his mother agent, Joe, during his senior year of college, Hu was one of those people who never associated themselves with modelling. Though having its limitations, he sees it as a “gift” that supports and allows him to have time to work on himself. It is celebratory – to be invited on set as a talent, to be part of a friend’s project, to participate in other’s creative visions. “I get to hang out with friends at work, but also get to share the joy when the project slowly comes together”, he describes.
When asked whether the fashion industry holds the power to present diversity, Hu replies with assertion. “Fashion is definitely capable of opening people’s perspective in identity. Even a humble ad in the subway can emphasise the diversity amongst us and remind individuals of similar identity that it’s not odd to be yourself.” This does not mean he is satisfied with the status quo – “There are still much more unique voices to be heard. We are just at the beginning of Asian and LGBTQ+ representation. I hope the conversation continues… the world is more beautiful when people are more accepting of themselves and the identity of others.”
Wenhao wears shirt DIESEL, vest and trousers TRUNG-TIN PHAM,
shoes CAMPERLAB.
Jay wears shirt DIESEL, trousers and belt TIBI,
vest VINTAGE JIL SANDER,
shoes MELITTA BAUMEISTER.
Chloe wears top VINTAGE COMME DES GARCON,
blazer DIESEL, skirt VINTAGE PRADA,
leggings KITH, shoes CAMPERLAB.
Jiashan wears suit, top and gloves VINTAGE COMME DES GARCON,
shoes DIESEL
JIASHAN LIU
Originally from Beijing, Jiashan Liu considers her identity as fluid. If she had to label herself using the current society’s standards, she would be a Libra sun, Capricorn moon, Cancer rising, heterosexual Chinese female designer, model, and creator. Yet personally speaking, “I’m no one or nothing since it changes and evolves every second,” she states. “I can be Jiashan, Jason, jiajia, shuanshuan, liuga… in different settings. These names and identities each contain a side of me, and stories people know me by, and means nothing more. I don’t believe in a fixed series of skins to put on, but simply going with the flow in life” – a point of view largely influenced by her experience of growing up independently in the US since the early age of thirteen.
Though a firm believer of “everything happens for a reason”, Liu still feels surreal how modelling is her reality. “Ever since I was a kid, I had this special bond with anything beautiful. I would be wrapping myself in anything I can find at home to make a look; watching a modelling contest at 3AM; drawing books after books of designs…I took it very seriously.” Therefore, finding herself in fashion design at the Fashion Institute of Technology was not a surprise. Modelling, on the other hand, was spontaneous – it wasn’t a choice, but a simple, natural progression. Starting with shoots for her own brand, it developed to helping friends out at New York Fashion Week, finally resulting in being casted and signed.
“I used to think so narrowly of the fashion industry from only the designer point of view. [Modelling] has broadened my view on fashion. Seeing ways of art being born in so many creative approaches.” This refers to her experience of working alongside other talents as the model on set. “Photographers, they have built up my appreciation for the lighting, composition, storytelling in imagery; Stylists with different aesthetics showed me their ways of giving the same clothes new lives that magically reflects their personalities. Hair stylists and makeup artists who sculpt and transform models on the spot and have us looking the best…”
The clothes we wear are often not just for protection or style, but a visual expression of our current mood; a reflection of our heritage; a declaration of our opinions. As Liu explains, “it presents whatever the person desires to show the world of themselves.” To her, fashion has the power to inspire. “I think the future for Asians and LGBTQ+ representation is bright with more and more talents from all fields stepping up their game. It’s a great motivation and inspiration for the younger generation to follow their footsteps.”
Jiashan wears sweater, trousers and belt COMMISSION,
shirt RAF SIMONS, skirt SIMONE ROCHA,
shoes PRIVATE POLICY.
Jay wears cardigan, skirt, bag and shoes MOLLY GODDARD,
vest VINTAGE ISSEY MIYAKE,
hat VINTAGE SCHIAPARELLI
JAY PAK
Born and raised in South Korea during the country’s financial hardship, Jay Pak identifies herself as a passionate animal-lover. “I really love animals more than humans to be honest. I live with two dogs in my family house in Korea. We adopted one of them who was an abandoned dog. I can feel many emotions that I can’t feel with humans by looking at animals.” Pure, direct, and incandescent – she returns the love received by volunteering at animal shelters – a step closer to her dream of becoming “a model who cares for and loves animals.”
“Since I was very young, not only because of my appearance, such as my tall height, and distinctive face but also because of my unique personality, I have always stuck out. One day, while playing with my friends in the park, someone called my mother to say that I scared him. I think it was too uncomfortable for people to focus on me and I hated it at that time.” But with the suggestion of a friend, Pak entered the industry smoothly through her experience of majoring in fashion modelling at an arts and sports high school in Seoul. Modelling to her is therefore a journey to reconcile with her body and personality: “this job gets a lot of spotlight. Unlike when I was young, now I like to be in the spotlight. I enjoy it.” What brought her to where she is now is simply a bit of curiosity at the right timing, mixed with some luck.
It certainly wasn’t easy building a career during COVID-19. “I was scared even when I was walking on the street. There are people who sometimes curse or yell at me because I’m Asian,” she recalls. Yet always looking forwards, the pandemic also provided her with opportunities as there was a lack of Asian models in the Western fashion world due to travel restrictions. It led up to her first solo campaign with Alexander Wang, her first cover on Vogue Korea, and countless shows in the fashion weeks.
Fashion to Pak feels fluid and diverse. “Before dreaming of becoming a model, most of them were skinny, pretty white and black models. But now, plus-size models were filming Chanel campaigns, Asians were showing their music at Chanel, and the closing models were also Asian. Now, we believe that we have become a society where people of various races and cultures can enjoy fashion to their heart's content. This is how it should be.”
Jay wears shirt KHOSROV, hat NOAH KANTROWITZ,
vest VINTAGE JEAN PAUL GAULTIER,
skirt VINTAGE COMME DES GARCON
Chloe wears top and skirt LARUICCI,
hat VAQUERA, boots TELFAR.
Jay wears shirt KHOSROV, hat NOAH KANTROWITZ,
vest VINTAGE JEAN PAUL GAULTIER,
skirt VINTAGE COMME DES GARCON, shoes CAMPERLAB
CHLOE TANG
Always captivated by art, Chloe Tang believes identity is “who we are and what lies at the root of our being…it grows as we experience new things in life.” Raised in Orlando, Florida, she is one of the many Chinese-Americans that have reflected upon the question of “who am I”. This sort of uncertainty expanded in her career as a model. “The biggest difficulty I’ve faced in modelling is staying true to myself. It’s easy to lose yourself when you’re constantly faced with judgement. Being young and impressionable, there were many moments where I felt lost and unsure of myself.” But defining herself as “a blend of Eastern and Western cultures along with my own set of values,” she has realised as an adult that she can’t change herself for other people.
Modelling is a profession she actively acquired. “Growing up, I’ve always appreciated art, and to me, fashion is another expression of art. I knew I wanted to be surrounded by creativity, so fashion always intrigued me.” With the intention of being a part of this industry, she submitted her own pictures to several agencies before signing with Muse Management in New York. Her passion paid off. “This year, it was such a surreal moment to close the Alexander Wang 2022 show as a Chinese-American. My first ever Vogue Singapore cover was another major dream of mine, and I’m proud that I could be a part in representing Asian culture.”
The lockdown certainly forced a pause. But it also allowed her time to slow down to observe the world and her inner self. She closes the interview with thoughts derived from that halted period – “Although there has been some pro-gress over the years, there isn’t enough Asian and LGBTQ+ representation in the fashion industry. My hope for the future is that I’d like to see more authentic inclusivity for everyone and diversity for people of all ethnicities.”
Chloe wears shirt MELLITA BAUMEISTER,
trousers RUI, shoes FERRARI.
Jan wears blazer and trousers VINTAGE ANN DEMEULEMEESTER,
bra VINTAGE MIU MIU, earrings and shoes SIMONE ROCHA.
Jiashan wears top and dress RUI,
sleeve sweater SARA WONG, trousers VINTAGE HELMUT LANG,
shoes NAKED WOLFE.
The story was published in the print issue The WOW N° 7.
Photographer: BELLA NEWMAN @ LALALAND ARTISTS
Stylist: AMY MACH @ LALALAND ARTISTS
Hair: EDWARD LAMPLEY @ CLM
Make-up: REI TAJIMA @ BRIDGE ARTISTS
Casting Director: DAVID CHEN
Models: CHLOE TANG & JAY PAK @ MUSE, JAN BAIBOON @ SUPREME, WENHAO HU @ CRAWFORD & JIASHAN LIU @ IDENTITY
Set Designer: MICHAEL YOUNKER
Lighting Director: MITCH STAFFORD
Photo Assistants: TYLER ROSTE & GRAYSON GUNNER
Stylist Assistants: NANCY HONG & CASEY HUANG
Production Coordinator: HAILEY CAMPBELL @ LALALAND ARTISTS
Set Designer Assistants: CHRIS CAWLEY & CONNOR WHITE